Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its heart: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to explore these narratives and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
